Laatikon nostosta vielä

[Sakke]

Elikkäs, splitissä pitäs nostaa laatikkoa hieman,että sais rattaat etes pikkasen parempaan kulmaan. Joten,paljonko laatikkoa pystyy nostaan ettei tarvi alkaa vaihetankoa siirtämään?Ja onnistuuko pelkkä lootan peräsosan nosto?Muistaakseni laatikon yläosa ottaa kohtuu pian takatulipeltiin mut se ei oo ongelma.Mielellään pitäsin myös luukun saranat entisellään ja puhallinkopan. Niin ja joo,käytössä vanhanmallin loota.

[Guest Raggare]

I raised my trans and engine 2 inches and here`s what I have learned;

 

with the use of a bus nose cone, redimpling the hockey stick is madatory. however, finding the new dimple point is a bit tedious and requies a bit of trail and error to make sure you can shift into all gears. weld up the old dimple and go for it. the new dimple is hardly an inch away from the OG one, if that, but it still makes or breaks shifting into all gears.

 

cooling tins, obviously, is another issue. I chissled out all the spot welds and removed the entire 360degree tin and tacked it back in 2`` higher. some trimming is required front and back of motor.

 

as noted before, the luggage area above the trans needs to be clearance as does the ares just above the nose cone, specifically above where the reverse light switch would be mounted. I used a hand sledge to clearnce the the luggage area and then used a dead blow to clean things up a bit. once the cooling tin is raised and trimmed it is obvious where the extra room needs to be made because of the missing part of the arch in the rear cooling tin (this will make more sense if and when you get into all of this).

 

exhaust, you will need to make a custom exhaust due to the header flange dumping straight into the rear apron. my exhaust is as follows; because I live in TX (not to mention I roll without windows) heater boxes were swapped for J tubes and joined with a cheap header with a flange. I used an old stinger flange and had the local muffler shop (their t-shirts say `no muff too tuff`) make the tightest bend possible to weld onto the stinger flange. from the flange, the tail pipe makes two quick tight turns and dumps in the passenger OG cut out. Once I find a muffler small enough, which has been a treasure hunt, I plan to extend the tailpipe under the rear fender where a muffler will be mounted via a hanger from a fender bolt and dump under the fender like any typical car tailpipe does. this setup should be ver similar to the one used on DBD`s old split.

 

I`m running 145s because not only do the 165s look like shit, they limit how low you can go due to rubbing on the top inner fender. this, my friends, brings up a very important issue which, I feel, is often times overlooked. This brings me to the purpose of this tutorial and my feelings on the trans and engine raise...

 

in my experiences, a 2" raise is the only reasonable mod concerning the transmission raise( and most feel a engine raise is not reasonable to begin with). otherwise (with lack of a 3" drop nose cone) the entire torsion tube and everything behind it will have to be raised and that just opens up a whole new can of worms, or beans if you live in Texas. likely, new deck lid hinges will be necessary because right now, with a 2" raise, the fan shroud is already close to the OG hinges among other tedious mods that no one would think of until they are half way into the project. also, without the proper nose cone to replace origianl shitf rod location, the entire shift rod will have to be moved (a pain in the ass if you ask me, not to mention an exposed shift rod looks like shit). most importantly, like I said before, you are limited to how low you can go by tire rub on the inner fender and raising the transmission will only make your tires rub more. the 145s on the rear of my car are about 2" from rubing the top of the inner fender and if I want to go lower I would turn the torsion bar one more notch, not raise the trans another inch.

 

anything other than 2" does not make sense to me.

 

I just thought if this, too. Pulling the engine is quite the treat right now because of the body, where the bumper bolts onto. i`m going to say, with a 3" raise, the only way to get the engine in or out would be to either cut up so much shit it would be obvious from the outside (like make it into a baja, engine exposed and shit) or take off the body.

 

my advice, think about what you are doing before you jump in. think about every little thing that could possibly be changed. accelerator cable routing might be an issue, a new header will def be a problem. the header already touches the apron on my ride.

 

I can go on and on about it. 3" does not make sense to me. 2" is a lot of work, more than you think.

 

stop singing, start swinging